************************************************************* GARDENING IN MARCH BY 1.
PRUNE FRUIT TREES: The end of February
and the first part of March is the best time to prune fruit trees. In
late January I contacted my arborist and scheduled an appointment. He
came in late February and again thinned them out and opened up the
canopy so I can get the most sun and air flow. Air flow is important to
disease prevention. Last year he really pruned the trees and I thought
he took off too much, which I am told is a common reaction. However, it
really made a difference and the trees had more flowers than ever. 2.
SPRAY FRUIT TREES WITH After my fruit trees
were pruned I was fortunate to have a couple warm days in the 50’s so
I sprayed my PEACH, 3.
SPRAY TREES While I had the
sprayer out and with the temperatures above 40 degrees F., I also
sprayed my RED TWIG DOGWOOD, Flowering Dogwood 4.
PRUNE RASPBERRIES: I prune my red “Heritage
Raspberries” and yellow “Fall
My “Black
Raspberries” (variety unknown) get topped (cut off at the
height of my fence) at the same time, and the laterals that produce the
berries are trimmed so they only have 10 to 12 buds per lateral. For
more information on growing and pruning Raspberries go to
www.ianrpubs.unl.edu/search. Type in Raspberries or NEBGUIDE #1580
“GROWING RASPBERRIES”. 5.
DO NOT FERTILIZE LAWN UNTIL END OF 6.
COMPLETE PRUNING OF ORNAMENTAL TREES According to a
publication from Iowa State University Extension Service, “The late
dormant period (February to early April) is an excellent time to prune
deciduous trees. The absence of foliage at this time of year gives the
home gardener a clear view of the tree and allows him/her to select and
remove appropriate branches. Also, the "healing" processes
(wound compartmentalization and callus formation) occur most rapidly
just prior to the onset of growth in spring. Proper pruning improves the
appearance, maintains the health, and prolongs the life of trees.
Improper pruning destroys their natural beauty, weakens them, and may
lead to their premature death.” “It is
essential to make proper cuts when pruning trees. Do not make flush
cuts. Flush cuts are cuts made as close as possible to the trunk or main
branch. Flush cuts produce large wounds, destroy the tree's natural
mechanisms that promote healing, and slow the healing process. When
pruning trees, make the final cut just beyond the branch collar and
branch bark ridge. The branch collar is the swollen area at the base of
the branch. The branch bark ridge is the dark, rough bark ridge that
separates the branch from the main branch or trunk. Pruning just beyond
the branch collar and branch bark ridge retains the tree's natural
defense mechanisms and promotes the healing process. When a branch is
pruned properly, a slightly raised area remains on the trunk or main
branch. However, do not leave stubs.”
“Do not apply wound dressings to
pruning cuts. The application of wound dressings or paints doesn't stop
decay and may actually inhibit or delay the healing of wounds. There is
one exception to the no paint recommendation. That exception involves
oak trees. To reduce the risk of the spread of oak wilt, Copyright
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