NEIGHBORHOOD GARDEN FOR JULY 15, 2006 ************************************************************ ONLY 3% OF INSECTS ARE DESTRUCTIVE PART
#1 BY GEORGE EDGAR Did you know
that only 3% of the insects in your yard and garden are destructive? I
was listening to a garden show on TV when the host asked the guest
entomologist if this statement is true. The entomologist said it was. I
was amazed so checked with two entomologists at the University of
Nebraska-Lincoln and a County Extension Educator. They all confirmed
that the statement is true. The host then
went on to ask why when he sprayed his plants with bug killer it seemed
in a few days there were more insects there than when he started
spraying. The entomologist said it was probably because he not only
killed the bad bugs but also the beneficial natural enemies (predators
and parasitoids) that normally keep them in check. One
entomologist told me that the other 97% of the insects can probably be
classified as follows: ·
Nuisance insects ·
Neutral or incidentals ·
Beneficials A good example
of a nuisance
insect is the Boxelder Bug. This bug does not eat your
plants, it does not bite you. When it gets into your home it does not
eat clothes, drapes, or furniture. These bugs are just a nuisance and
can be best cleaned up with a vacuum. Mini-vacs are a tremendous advance
in household pest control technology. And no chemicals are needed. Many
do not like these nuisance insects but they are not destructive. Neutral
or incidental bugs are just that. They exist in our
environment but are not chewing on our plants, they do not transmit
diseases, nor do they bite us or our pets. Some, like butterflies, can
be very pretty and are prized for their aesthetic value.
The beneficial insects can
be further classified as ·
Decomposers, that break
down organic matter, help turn yard and kitchen scraps into compost, and
are necessary for the health of the soil in our yard and garden; ·
Pollinators, such as bees,
flies, beetles, and other flower-visiting insects; ·
Predators and parasites,
including lady beetles, green lacewings, syrphid flies, ground beetles,
parasitoid wasps, and other insects that eat aphids, grubs,
caterpillars, as well as other yard and garden pests. The parasitoids
lay their eggs in, on, or near many undesirable insects, their eggs
eventually hatching and the larva feeding on the host, soon killing it.
Fred Birdsall, a Colorado Master Gardener, and Carl Wilson, a
horticulturist at Colorado State University Cooperative Extension, have
written an article on “Growing Plants to Attract Beneficial
Insects”. In this they say a gardener can grow plants in their garden
that attract beneficial insects. “Adult lacewings, flower (syrphid)
flies and parasitic wasps, for example, feed on flower nectar and
pollen. Their young devour many of the insect pests that can make a
gardener’s life miserable. Maintaining this workforce however means
providing food for the beneficials AND tolerating a few insect
pests.”** Whitney Cranshaw, Colorado State University entomologist has
compiled a list of flowers used by beneficial insects. This list is
contained in the same article. For a copy see website at the end. He has
also written an article on “Managing Nuisance Household Invaders”. It really
bothers me when people get out the bug spray whenever they see any kind
of insect. Or when people buy the four-step lawn program and/or put an
insecticide on their lawn even though they do not have and never have
had an insect problem. I overheard a
man tell a store clerk that he had just finished mowing his lawn and had
many moths fly up as he mowed. He was sure they were laying eggs and
they would destroy his grass. He asked for an insecticide that would
take them all out. He had no idea what the moths were, if they were
really laying eggs, and if they would injure his lawn. For years the
only insecticide I have put on my lawn is Merit for grubs. The more
insecticide you use the more you kill the beneficials and predators that
keep the bad bugs under control. There are a
number of choices on how to control your garden pests. These include
biological control, cultural control, mechanical control, and chemical
control. Biological
control involves the introduction or conservation of natural
enemies including predators, parasitoids, and pathogens to suppress
insect pest infestations. This approach includes applying an insecticide
only when it will be most effective, and as selectively as possible, so
as to promote the natural activities of the beneficial insects. Cultural
control is selecting plants that are less prone to serious
insect problems. Also, it means practicing good sanitation in your
garden as many insect pests can overwinter in plant debris, and using
proper watering, fertilizing, and good growing practices so you have
healthy plants. Mechanical
control is a great option and includes physically preventing
certain insects from attacking your plants. Nets (row covers) over
plants during periods of high pest activity and physically removing the
insects and destroying them avoids chemical use. Chemical
control should be used only when needed and only as one
component of your insect management plan. Remember, insecticides need to
be used properly and always follow the instructions.
Next week in Part #2, I will have a list of references, and talk
more about insects, and especially encourage you to Use
the right insecticide, at the right rate, at the right time, on the
right insect.
I want to thank Dr. Frederick
P. Baxendale, Ph.D. for his excellent review and editing. Fred is a
Professor and Interim Head of the Department of Entomology at the
University of Nebraska-Lincoln, and a regular panel member of Backyard
Farmer on Nebraska Public Television. ** “Growing
Plants to Attract Beneficial Insects” by Fred Birdsall, Colorado
Master Gardener, and Carl Wilson, horticulturist, Colorado State
University Cooperative Extension. Copyright by CSU/Denver Cooperative
Extension Master Gardener 1999-2006. For a copy go on the internet to http://www.colostate.edu/Deps/CoopExt/4DMG/phc/benefici.htm Copyright 2006 |