NEIGHBORHOOD GARDEN FOR MARCH 10, 2007 ************************************************************* WHAT KIND OF LAWN DO YOU WANT? BY GEORGE EDGAR What kind of
lawn do you want this next summer? Some may think that is a strange
question because we all want a nice green lush lawn with no weeds, and
minimum care. The problem is we want the impossible. The best looking
lawn in town requires work, water, and money. If you want a
low maintenance lawn that requires a minimum amount of water,
fertilizer, weed control, insecticide, fungicide, and mowing you will
have to put up with a few weeds and possibly a few brown spots. The time
to decide if you want a low maintenance lawn, a high maintenance lawn,
or something in-between is now. The lawn care companies are out
soliciting business so you need to think about what you want before
being pressured to spend more money, and then later on, more time, than
you want. The
garden centers and box stores are all stocked up and ready to sell you a
4-step program, a 5-step program or even a 6 step program. Remember that
these heavily advertised, 4-step, 5-step, and 6-step programs, are not
necessarily good for your lawn and the environment. However, they have
been great marketing tools for the garden centers, hardware stores, box
stores, lawn care companies and especially the fertilizer manufacturers. What
do you really need, and how much
time do you want to spend? How important is it to you to have the best
looking lawn on the block? These are important questions you need to
consider and answer before you buy a program or contract with a lawn
care company. Let
us look at the choices: A low maintenance fescue or bluegrass lawn is
able to get by with one or two applications of fertilizer per year. I
use a modified 4 bag program most every year on my low maintenance,
bluegrass lawn. It is easiest for me to remember what to do when by
using Holidays. I apply a pre-emergence crabgrass preventer about Arbor
Day, then a grub control containing Merit without fertilizer about July
4th, then a regular fertilizer about Labor Day, and finally a
winter blended fertilizer after Halloween. This year with the warm fall
it was after Thanksgiving. You will notice I do not use any
weed-and-feed. If I have some weeds, I spot treat those weeds. Weeds and
diseases show up in a stressed lawn. If
you are going to fertilize once a year, apply in the fall, and if twice
a year, the two fall applications are the most important. I always use
slow release nitrogen fertilizer with iron. Iron is what makes the lawn
look green, not nitrogen fertilizer. The lawn is watered only as needed
and mowed about once per week. I have my mower set as high as it will go
so the grass blades shade the crown and soil. This prevents unnecessary
evaporation, saves water, and reduces the interval between mowing. I do
not pick up my grass clippings but let them fertilize the lawn every
week. A
high maintenance lawn requires more fertilizer, more water, and more
mowing. Remember, the more you fertilize, the more you have to water,
and the more you have to mow. Also, the more nitrogen fertilizer you
apply in the early spring, the more likely you are to have insect and
disease problems later on in the summer. This is because you probably
stressed the grass, forcing it to grow rapidly. Insects and diseases
love stressed plants and these problems require more chemicals to keep
them under control. A high maintenance lawn means at least a 6-step
program. 1.
A 6-step program starts with Crabgrass control with
fertilizer around Arbor Day. Team or pendimethalin is the active
ingredient in Scotts, Ace, Ferti-lome and many other brands. These
products have a residual of about 60 days so a second application is
required in June to control late germinating crabgrass and to control
spurge and foxtail that does not germinate until June or early July.
Dimension also has a short residual. Earl May and some other brands use
Barricade which has a residual of about 90 days. For maximum
effectiveness do not apply any crabgrass control product until after
April 1st. 2.
The second step is a weed and feed that is
applied around Memorial Day. 3.
The third step is Grub
Control with Merit or mach
ii that goes on about the 4th of July, or a
general lawn insecticide that goes on in late June or early July. Be
aware that a general lawn insecticide that contains carbaryl (Sevin), or
Bifenthrin, or permethrin (Eight), or acephate (Orthene) or malathion
does not control grubs and most grub control insecticides do not control
most other lawn insects. You may have to use both if you have an insect
problem. 4.
The fourth step is a summer fertilizer that
goes on about the middle of July. The amount of nitrogen applied is
lower than regular fertilizer so it does not burn the grass, and is
higher in iron than regular fertilizer. 5.
The fifth step is an application of regular lawn
fertilizer about Labor Day. 6.
The sixth step is an application of a winter
formulated fertilizer after Halloween. (Whether
you have a high maintenance or a low maintenance lawn, make sure that
every bag of fertilizer you put on has iron in it and the nitrogen is
mostly slow release.) Most
of us are somewhere in-between the low maintenance program and the high
maintenance program. We like a nice lawn but it does not have to look
like the golf course and may have a few weeds. But we also don’t want
it to look like the vacant lot down the street. Only you can decide what
you can live with and how much time and money you want to spend on your
lawn. Keep this in mind: ·
Most homeowners put more
nitrogen fertilizer on their lawns than farmers do on an irrigated
cornfield. ·
Lawns under stress from
over fertilization, and/or mowing too short, are more likely to have
disease and insect problems. This summer be kind
to your lawn, your pocketbook, and to the environment. Plan and decide
now what kind of lawn you can live with. Copyright 2007 |