NEIGHBORHOOD GARDEN FOR DECEMBER 3, 2011

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LEAVES FOR WINTER

BY GLADYS JEURINK

 

          This fall I picked up a very small dark leaved plant in a tiny pot. Its only sign said Waffle Plant because the leaves are crinkled all over the surface.  There is a red tint in there. I moved it into a larger pot and fertilized it and added a systemic insecticide. It took off like a wild thing and was soon hanging down the sides demanding to be watered every day or it drooped.  Then I tried to find out more as it is a very handsome thing in with the green plants.  None of my books mentioned Waffles until I took down one of my very old books to find it. In a 50 year old book I found it under its scientific name, Hemigraphs exocita. Then I found it in several places. It probably does not sell well called that! The books recommended it for a hanging basket which, accounts for its wild growth.  The new pot (again!) is up in a plant stand so we will see! It has tiny white blooms.  It certainly makes those green ones show up! There are 90 species of them from tropical Asia.

          Next to those bumpy dark leaves is a little (15 inch) Cypress Tree (Cupressus Macrocarpa) with golden foliage.  It is a perfect cone shape and in its native area can grow to 100 feet which means it cannot stay for many years.  The female will have tiny cones of about 1 1/2 inches so it is a conifer. At its young age the leaves are soft and tempting to pet.  The main fun is the contrast of all those leaves in that big South window.  The encyclopedia says it will grow to 15 feet in a container and is only hardy to zone 7 to I am hoping it’s a slow grower!

          All of the Calatheas are dramatic! Their leaves may have stripes, spots, and color variations, usually not over 12 to 15 inches high.  They have been called Peacock Plant. Many of them do not bloom as a houseplant but it is not necessary as their colors last all year and not for just a season. Coming from South America, they can not tolerate temperatures under 60 degrees. Some species have leaves resembling the Prayer Plant which closes its leaves at night. The Calatheas do not.

          They should not dry out at any time.  The leaves come up curled which shows the reddish under color.  Some authors recommend watering with distilled water to prevent browning of the leaf edges. I use the water from the dehumidifier. Planting it close to other plants helps keep up the humidity they demand. I have one of the new hybrids with deep purple undersides, with feathery markings on the top of dark and light green. It holds its leaf upward so the purple is very much in evidence. The leaves are about 12 inches long and 8 inches wide and mine seems to be happy in the South window but the second row back.

          Crotons (Codiaeum sp) with their many colored leaves of yellow, orange, red, and green with a great variety of shapes, were grown outside for years in the South up to 5 feet high.  Then they went to Europe and the hybridizers developed ones for house plants. To keep the colors bright they need bright light but not direct sun. Preferably in an East or West window. In summer mine live on the East side of the house, avoiding that hot afternoon sun. It got so large this summer that I had to let it freeze and now have a tall slender one with yellow as the predominant color called Goldfinger. They should not dry out or will drop leaves.  You can cut the top out, dip the edge in rooting hormone, and it will root in 4 to 8 weeks in potting soil. They are easy to find and not too expensive, with many named varieties from their European visit.  Leaves are thick, leather like , shiny, spotted, veined, and striped. The latex in the sap is slightly poisonous to the skin. They are natives to Southeast Asia.

          Dracaena, or Dragon Trees, are from Africa and Asia,  sometimes called False Palms, are trees in their home land so may grow too large eventually but you can cut the top off and it will usually root or you can cut a section of the stem containing a growth bud (a slight swelling under the bark). You can find a variation to fit any area. Some are easier to grow than others. Dracaena “Marginata tricolor” is one of the favorites with red, green, and white. Right now I have Dracaena “Sanderviana (Ribbon Plant) which is green with a white edge that is supposed to stay under 3 feet when potted. 

Copyright 2011

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WINTER MULCHING

FROM IANR LAWN & GARDEN NEWS

NOVEMBER 22, 2011

          Winter mulching is recommended for strawberries, Chrysanthemums and other perennials on the borderline of hardiness for a given area; and for fall planted perennials to help prevent frost heave uprooting plants. Winter mulch should be put into place after plants are full dormant and soils begin to freeze or night temperatures are consistently dropping into the 20’s....Use a 12 inch layer of coarse mulch over the tops of plants. Encircling plants or beds with chicken wire or hardware cloth and filling the chicken wire or hardware cloth with coarse mulch, such as wood chips or leaves, works well.

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WINTER MULCHING AND CUTTING BACK ROSES

FROM IANR LAWN & GARDEN NEWS

NOVEMBER 22, 2011

          Pruning is not needed during fall for shrub and hybrid tea Roses unless pruning is needed for a Rose to fit beneath a winter protection method such as a Rose cone. Wait until April and then prune to remove winter killed wood. Do not add winter protection to Roses until the soil begins to freeze or night temperatures are consistently dropping into the 20’s at night. A good mulching method is to encircle the Rose with a chicken wire or hardware cloth cage, staked to hold it in place, fill the cage with coarse leaves or straw.

 

For more information go to http://byf.unl.edu/hortupdate. You can sign up to receive this very helpful publication monthly during the winter and twice a month during the summer from UN-L Extension Service.