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USE THE RIGHT PRODUCT, AT THE RIGHT
AT THE RIGHT TIME, ON THE RIGHT
PLANT!!!!
PART #4--INSECTS CONTINUED
BY
Did you know
that there are over 1,000,000 insect species that have been described by
entomologists? Do you know how many of these are actually garden pests?
According to a
·
Beneficials
·
Nuisance
insects
·
Neutral or
incidentals
Integrated Pest Management or IPM is an approach in which you
first identify the insect on your plant, and then apply the least
invasive treatment possible at the correct time, but only if the insect
is actually damaging your plant. If you think you have a problem, go to
the local County Extension Office, a full service garden center, or
other expert for an accurate diagnosis and informed recommendation.
There are a number of choices on how to control your garden pests. These
include biological control, cultural control, mechanical control, and
chemical control.
·
Biological
control involves the
introduction and conservation of natural enemies including predators,
parasitoids, and pathogens to suppress insect pest infestations. This
approach includes applying an insecticide only when it will be most
effective, and as selectively as possible, so as to promote the natural
activities of the beneficial insects.
·
Cultural control
is selecting plants that are less prone to serious insect problems.
Also, it means practicing good sanitation in your garden as many insect
pests can overwinter in plant debris, and using proper watering,
fertilizing, and good growing practices so you have healthy plants.
·
Mechanical
control is a great option and
includes physically preventing certain insects from attacking your
plants. Nets (row covers) over plants during periods of high pest
activity and physically removing the insects and destroying them avoids
chemical use.
·
Chemical control
should be used only when needed and only as one component of your insect
management plan. Remember, insecticides need to be used properly and
always follow the instructions.
If you use a general purpose insecticide
like Sevin, Eight, Malathion or bifenthrin every time you see a bug, you
may be doing more harm than good. Make sure there are insects present
that are actually hurting a plant before spraying, and then
Use the right insecticide, at the
right
What is the right insecticide? Do you know that Sevin does not
work very well on aphids, but is highly toxic to the ladybugs that eat
aphids? Sevin is also highly toxic to bees that pollinate your flowers,
cucumber, squash, and many other plants. Also, grubs can be very
destructive to a lawn but some chemicals are better than others, and the
wrong chemical, at the wrong time will not cure the problem or prevent
damage to the lawn. Grub control put on too early, or not watered in,
becomes ineffective and is not available in the top 2 to 3 inches of the
soil when needed. In Eastern and
Dylox and other short residual insecticides will kill grubs but
need to be applied in August after the eggs have hatched and when the
small grubs are present. Again, adequate irrigation after treatment is
essential for acceptable control. Remember, the bag may say the product
inside will kill grubs, but not specify how well and usually does not
say when to apply IN NEBRASKA.
Some chemicals get tied up in the thatch and never reach the grubs which
are feeding below the soil surface. Milky spore is advertised as an
organic control of grubs. It does work on Japanese Beetle larvae, but is
of little value in
When controlling aphids I use insecticidal soap first as this
product does not injure the beneficial predators (lady beetles).
Insecticidal soap is also good for use on spider mites and many other
destructive insects. It can be used in the vegetable garden up to the
day of harvest.
Use the right insecticide, at the right
People have asked me, “When is the right time of day to spray?”
Pollinators, and many beneficial insects, are most active in the
morning. They go back to the hive or nest about
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