************************************************************* MORE ON SHADE BY Some plants
prefer shade but shade differences vary as white to black. Many of your
plant labels will tell you what the plant likes. One catalog I have has a
series of circles from solid black to solid white with the preferred one
as the first in the series. Dense shade
(some times called heavy) is an area where no sunlight appears ever. Some
plants like mushrooms do well here but there are very few plants that will
bloom well. Those that do will probably have longer than usual spaces
between leaves, thus sharing what light they do have.
Wild Ginger that creeps along the ground with tiny brown blooms on
the floor, some ivy’s as Jack-In-The-Pulpit, and some wild Orchids can
do as well here. Shooting Star
and Hellebores get light before the trees leaf out if they have plenty of
water. The Stars go dormant if
they dry out. For shrubs
(Chokeberries not Choke Cherries), and Japanese Kerria will bloom, while
Forsythia will grow and look quite well but does not bloom. Some of the
Ferns will look good but mine sends out runners into more sunny areas
where they are more vigorous. My
Celandine Poppies are very early bloomers before the trees leaf out.
The next shade
category is full shade which is “no obvious sunlight but light from a
sunny spot nearby”. Most of the deep shade plants do well here plus a
number of others such as Jack-In-The Pulpit (a bulb). I toss the red
berries and stalks in the fall under a tree or shrub to get another colony
started. There are a number of species of “jacks” available.
Most of them do need a fair amount of water to survive.
The usual “Part
Shade”, the next lighter shade may have the largest variety of plants.
Tags on your plants may say “half shade”, “part shade”, or some
shade. This group of plants
needs 4 to 5 hours of shade per day. Here
in Close to the
“Toads” is Astilbe with its fluffy bloom, 2 1/2 to 3 feet tall. It is
a water lover in part shade. Astilbes can take more sun if protected from
wind. They come in a number of
colors, red or pink being most common.
I keep putting them in various places trying to find the one they
like best. Lady’s Mantle
and Lady Bells (Adenophora) like part shade. As does Corydalis. I find the
houseplant Geraniums do best here if you don’t water too much. Daylilies
adjust to almost anywhere except full shade as will Coral Bells (Heuchera).
Their foliage to me is prettier than the bloom.
On some species I cut the blooms off as soon as they appear so all
the energy will go into the leaves. The
leaves can be most any color, even black, with stripes or spots, ruffled
or plain. Lilies of many kinds like part shade to keep the petals from
fading. “Filtered
Shade” is shady all day but sun sneaks through at different areas all
day as it moves around. Some
times it is called “Dappled Shade”. Many plants do well here. “Light
Shade” is shade no more than 2 to 4 hours, good for plants, and is also
called “Thin or Part Shade”. Copyright 2010 ************************************************************* gypsum will NOT
BREAK UP YOUR hard BY Gypsum is a
salt also known as calcium sulfate. Do
not add gypsum or lime
unless you have had a soil test and they are recommended.
Advertisements for gypsum claim the addition will loosen heavy clay
soils, improve soil structure, and improve soil drainage. Research in the
Midwest ( The best way to
improve To amend an
existing flower or shrub bed, mulch with compost around perennials or
shrubs and allow earthworms to work it into the soil. To amend
existing lawns, apply no more than 1/2 inch of fine compost then core
aerate. This works the compost into the hard clay soil. Aerate twice a
year if desired, and make sure you go over the lawn both ways and even at
a diagonal. Aerate every spring anytime in April or the first part of May,
and every fall before September 1st. Also use a mulching mower
so clippings can work down into the soil and add organic matter. Clippings
do not contribute to thatch. Copyright 2010
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